Good evening. This is Ikeda.
I think the lingering summer heat will subside by the end of this week.
The good news is that the temperature in the mornings and evenings is becoming quite comfortable.
I just wish the temperature would drop a little more during the day.
Although it still feels like fall and summer is still dragging its way through, I'm looking forward to the season that is just around the corner.
Now, as autumn is starting to feel like autumn, the 24SS collection week has begun overseas as well.
During collection week, time passes just by looking at the LOOK published in the media, and it's nice to have so much free time to spare.
I'm about to be asked if I ever have too much free time, but I can't argue because of course there are times when I have too much time on my hands.
What I look forward to every season is the first collection after a new designer.
It's fun to look at it and think about what has been inherited from the previous designer, how it has changed, and whether it is both brand-like and designer-like.
It looks like I'll be glued to my Mac screen every day until collection week is over.
Today, I would like to introduce Yamauchi's full-length wool items, thinking that the brand is very brand-like and also shows the designer's own philosophy.
These are items that are both unique and unique.
Let's start with common fabrics.
We use thick, full-length Super 120's wool.
So far, this is Yamauchi's fall/winter staple, full-length wool.
This season, we are updating this classic full-length wool.
The fabric was originally characterized by a puffy texture, but now it has a puffy texture.
The density is slightly softer than standard full-length wool, and by applying water jet full-length wool, the result is a more full-bodied finish.
Although you can feel the bulge, the fabric not only gives a soft impression, but also has both a masculine and soft feel.
Using this fabric, we have developed three types: tailored jackets, stand collar shirts, and easy tapered pants.
First, a tailored jacket.
Although it's called a tailored jacket, it doesn't give the impression of being too structured.
This is because it has been designed with thoughtful specifications at key points so that you can wear it without worrying.
By placing pockets in the transition area of the fabric on the front body, eliminating the original center seam on the back body, and wearing tube sleeves on the sleeves, you get a simpler and cleaner impression.
By doing this, I think it becomes a piece that you can easily throw on like a cardigan, rather than putting on a lot of effort.
It has a very good balance between being a tailored jacket and a cardigan.
However, that's not all, and you can't miss Yamauchi's craftsmanship, in which he sews in a way that prevents the stitches from showing.
Next is the stand collar shirt.
I wrote about the stand-up collar shirt in the Doro Dye Scrap book ``Grit,'' so I'll keep it brief.
Compared to other items in the range, this one is the most casual piece.
It may be easier to understand if you imagine it as a shirt jacket rather than a shirt.
Not only does it have a stand-up collar, but details such as larger-than-usual buttons and narrower cuffs give it a more casual look.
In addition to the loose silhouette, the raglan sleeves add to the casual look.
It looks like a shirt, but it's a shirt jacket that you can easily put on, and you can feel the quality of the tailoring in a casual atmosphere.
Lastly, easy tapered pants.
Although this is not a standard item, it is an item that has been available for several seasons.
However, this is a small detail, but since the inseam has been extended by 2 cm, I think this item can be worn by a wider range of people.
If it had been a traditional size, it would have been too neat for me, and I would have thought that I might not have selected it.
In addition to the tapered silhouette, it also has a center crease, giving it a slimmer, cleaner look.
For someone like me who always wears thick pants, it feels very refreshing.
It looks like slacks, but as the item name suggests, it has an elasticated waist with a drawcord, and it has an easy design that eliminates the opening in the front.
It's easy to wear anyway.
It seems like it would be a hassle to wear a belt.
It has the feel of slacks, and is so easy to wear that you won't be able to go back.
The color is charcoal gray.
Needless to say, the colors are easy to match, so I think it would be easy to match with other items, as well as as a set.
In particular, the tailored jackets and standard collar shirts have a casual element to them, so I personally think that I would like them to be more casual.
It might be a good idea to match it with old clothes or military items as a contrast.
It makes me want to set goals like continuing to be myself and taking on new challenges.
Please check out the full-length wool items that are typical of Yamauchi and are not limited to just the street.
Ikeda
